Delhi Food Guide: Chole Bhature, Kebabs & Old Delhi Chaat
Delhi wakes up slowly, but its food hits you like a Parliament debate—loud, layered, impossible to ignore. One morning in Paharganj, I watched a man balance a tray of golden bhature over his head like a halo while weaving through honking scooters. Behind him, copper pots of chole simmered in a spice fog thick enough to sting your eyes. This is a city where breakfast is deep-fried, lunch is smoky with charcoal, and dinner often involves arguing about the “real” origin of butter chicken.
💡 QUICK INTEL
Mood: Rich, argumentative
Best Time: October–March; avoid peak afternoon heat in Old Delhi
Cost: ₹600–₹1,200 per day depending on how often you sit down vs. stand
Safety Rating: 7/10
Old Delhi classics: chole bhature, parathas and jalebi for breakfast
Start in Chandni Chowk, Delhi’s food archive compressed into a few cramped lanes. Chole bhature here is less a dish and more a ritual: pillow-puffy bhature blistered in hot oil, chickpeas cooked down into a tangy, brick-red gravy, raw onions and lime cutting the richness. Around the corner, Paranthe Wali Gali turns stuffed flatbreads into a catalogue—potato, paneer, even dried fruit—fried in ghee until crisp at the edges. Jalebis filled with rabri at Old Famous Jalebi Wala rewire your definition of “sweet”; they drip clarified butter and sugar in equal proportion. Come early, before the sun bounces off the metal shutters and the crowds turn every bite into a contact sport.
New Delhi’s kebabs, curries and café culture
Once you’ve braved Old Delhi, the tree-lined avenues of New Delhi feel almost suspiciously calm. Near Jama Masjid, Karim’s still channels Mughal kitchens with nihari and kebabs that taste like they’ve been negotiated over for centuries. In Central and South Delhi, generations-old dhabas coexist with third-wave coffee shops serving cold brew and avocado toast to students and start-up founders. You can walk from a kebab stand perfuming the air with seekh and boti to a minimalist, laptop-friendly café in under ten minutes, switching from steel plates to ceramic in the time it takes to answer your Slack pings.
How to navigate hygiene, crowds and Delhi Belly risks
Delhi’s food is high-reward, medium-risk. Choose busy shops with fast turnover; the line is your friend, not your enemy. Avoid pre-cut fruit and salads unless you’re inside a reputable restaurant. Stick to bottled water, use hand sanitizer after handling cash, and keep antacids in your daypack. When exploring Old Delhi, wear closed shoes and keep valuables zipped away—this is not the place to juggle DSLR lenses and overflowing chaat plates. Uber and the metro are your best allies between neighbourhoods; let the city exhaust your taste buds, not your patience.
"Delhi doesn’t just feed you; it argues with you through every spice blend, daring you to pick a favourite lane and defend it forever."
— Maya
The Verdict: If Mumbai is about speed, Delhi is about depth. Come hungry, pace yourself, and treat each neighbourhood like its own thesis on wheat, ghee and the politics of flavour.