Ahmedabad Food Guide: Manek Chowk & Gujarati Snacks

Ahmedabad is proof that you don’t need meat to run a food city at full volume. By day, it’s all heat and traffic and pale stone; by night, markets like Manek Chowk transform into dining rooms under bare bulbs. Vendors roll out carts stacked with dhokla, fafda, jalebi and pani puri, while families treat midnight snacks like a competitive sport.

💡 QUICK INTEL

• Mood: Vegetarian, high-energy

• Best Time: November–February; late nights at Manek Chowk

• Cost: ₹350–₹800 per day; portions are generous and prices gentle

• Safety Rating: 8/10

Snacks as a way of life: khaman, fafda and more

Gujarati snacks are a full-time occupation here. Khaman and dhokla—often lazily grouped together by outsiders—arrive as soft, steamed squares bright with turmeric and mustard seeds, served with green chilli and coriander chutney. Fafda and jalebi form the city’s legendary breakfast duo: crunchy chickpea flour strips paired with syrupy spirals straight from the oil. Khandvi, hand-rolled sheets of gram flour tempered with sesame and curry leaves, tastes like the improbable love child of pasta and silk. Many shops specialise in just a few items, which is exactly what you want; depth over breadth tends to equal better hygiene and fresher oil.

Manek Chowk: jewellery market by day, food court by night

After dark, the jewellery stalls retreat and gas burners take their place. Manek Chowk is where you come to test your appetite and your sense of humour. Menus stretch from pav bhaji overloaded with cheese to chocolate sandwiches that would horrify a Parisian pâtissier but make local teenagers very happy. Navigate with intent: start with lighter snacks, then graduate to pav bhaji or bhajiya, and only attempt novelty items if your stomach has already proven its loyalty. The sheer volume of people means food rarely sits around; still, pick vendors whose stations look organised rather than oily chaos.

How to survive all this without needing a week to recover

Ahmedabad’s food is sweet-leaning and carb-heavy, so balance is key. Aim for simple, home-style thalis for lunch—rice, dal, vegetable sides, kadhi—then let evenings belong to snacks. Most spots accept UPI, which keeps you from fumbling with change while carrying a plate in one hand. If you’re sensitive to sugar, let vendors know you want “less sweet” versions where possible; Gujaratis are generous with jaggery. And keep walking—between markets, along the Sabarmati riverfront, through the old city lanes—so your step count has at least a fighting chance.

"In Ahmedabad, snacking isn’t a guilty pleasure; it’s a civic responsibility carried out with mustard seeds and sugar."

— Maya

The Verdict: For vegetarians and curious omnivores, Ahmedabad is a masterclass in how far you can stretch flour, lentils and yoghurt. Come hungry, leave with a very intimate relationship to your waistband.